We went back to Casa Pepe, the restaurant in Culebrón on Saturday to get some of the traditional food for this area - arroz con conejo y caracoles, the local paella made with rice, rabbit and snails. Rather than drink our coffee at our table in the restaurant we repaired to the bar where we were offered a couple of small spirit drinks, orujo, on the house and where we fell into conversation with people on either side of the bar.
When we first looked at the house in Culebrón one of the selling points of the location was that the bar, the bar that is now Pepe's but was then something else. We always reckoned that going into the bar a few times would have us chatting with the locals and make it easier to assimilate into the community. The bar closed before we got to actually living in the house. It re-opened briefly as an Uruguayan restaurant but with no bar and the enterprise collapsed within six months. We're off back to Ciudad Rodrigo tomorrow. Maybe we are fated to never mix it with the Culebrón locals.
Written on Sunday 12 April 2009