Thursday, July 18, 2024

Liquid Gold

We all know about wine tasting. Spit or swallow. You may have temporarily forgotten but, if you're mature and British, you'll know the wine tasting competition in Tales of Terror with Peter Lorre and Vincent Price. If it temporarily escapes your memory then YouTube remembers it.

Maggie, who I live with, appreciates wine. One of her many cultural endeavours is visiting bodegas (wineries). She makes me go along even though I'm more beer and brandy man myself - apart, not shaken or stirred Mr Bond. The normal routine is that you pay for a bodega visit and see a few vines, some steel tanks, some big rubber hoses, some oak barrels and, finally, the wine tasting. That's the bit most people, except the designated driver, like best. You get to drink three or four or five glasses of wine from the bodega, usually with a bit of ham and cheese to nibble. There are lots of variations and each of the wineries tends to have a different emphasis. The quality of the explanation and what you get shown also varies, but almost all the flaws are swept away by the wine tasting. Don't think bar though, think education. The tasting session will involve lots of information about what makes a wine better or worse and ideas about the process of wine tasting.

Some time ago, I found out that the Estrella Levante brewery in Espinardo, Murcia did tours and tastings. Now beer sampling sounded more up my street. The tasting session at the brewery was really well organised, with a sort of placemat that had tips about tasting the beer, a scoring system based on several characteristics and other ways of deciding about the quality of the stuff you were pouring down your throat. The placemat wasn't exactly astrophysics, but it certainly added to the audience participation in the tasting session.

Now, wine and beer tasting sound perfectly routine to me, but last weekend we tried something new and went on an oil tasting session. Not, you understand the Castrol type product but olive.

If you're a wine drinker and if red, white or rosé is no longer precise enough you may have got into the habit of asking for the Lithuanian Chardonnay, the Australian Petit Verdot or maybe an Argentinian Malbec. Apparently, it's similar with olive oil. Oil buffs don't just check that it's extra virgin - instead of virgin or refined oil - they worry about the variety of olive. The quality oils are made from this or that olive, and just like wine, or whisky, there is also blended product. The oil we are talking about for tasting is only the best, that's virgin extra; the stuff that is extracted in the first pressing of olives harvested recently and directly from the trees. There are lots of other olive oils that are cheaper and come from the second pressings or use some sort of chemical extraction process, but the pukka stuff, the quality stuff, is extra virgin.

There are at least 1,000 olive varieties. I nearly remember the names of two; Picual and Arbequina. The Arbequina gives a nice, easy-to-use, smooth sort of oil; the Picual is a bit spicier, a bit more bitter. Nowadays, if I'm visiting someone in Spain, I know that olive oil as a gift will go down well, and also that there are loads and loads of mills spurting out quality product alongside the everyday stuff. 

When we went to the Deortegas almazara (oil mill), near Yecla, we tasted oils made from five different varieties of olives - Arbequina, Picual, Cornicabra, Hojiblanca and Frantoio. We also tried a blended oil. Just like the Estrella brewery, this almazara provided us with a placemat with some hints as to what to look for. The oils were presented in little blue glass bowls, and we were told that cupping the glass to warm the neat oil before we drank it would release the full range of aromas. The blue glass is to hide the colour, as there is, apparently, a common belief that the greener oils are better, whereas in reality, it's not the colour but factors such as taste, smell and viscosity that mark the quality. Indeed good oils can vary in colour from light yellow or gold through to geen. It simply depends on the variety, time of harvest, and the region where the fruit is grown. Once we'd drunk the oil, we also tried the same oils on good white bread. The idea is that bread is the most neutral carrier for the oil. It was noticeable how the bread affected the taste.

We've done lots of oil mills in the region before, and we've often sampled their wares, but this was the first time that we've done a structured cata (tasting). I thought it was good fun. I also thought how interesting it would be for visitors. An added plus was that unlike the wine catas, where I always seem to be the driver, on this occasion I could join in without worrying about causing accidents or taking breath tests on the way home. So a good activity for Methodists as well as vegans.

The photo at the top shows the fanlike attachment that goes around the olive tree which acts as a net to catch the fruit when the tractor shakes the tree.

The almazara we visited was Deortegas though I'm sure there are many more.

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